Why Were Synthetic Stones Popular in Art Deco Jewelry
The Fine art Deco artful, one of the most iconic blueprint movements of the 20th Century, spanned industries, from fine art to manner to architecture. After a century, the Fine art Deco movement is still recognized for its importance and the radical design shift it created. In this article, we cover some of the key elements that influenced this revolutionary style and the new jewelry designs that emerged from information technology.
Cultural Shifts and The Nativity of Art Deco
The early on part of the 20th Century saw a convergence of important political and cultural events that influenced the world of art and design profoundly. Globe War I, global cultural substitution, and industrial modernization all contributed to the birth of the Art Deco era.
Out With the Old
At the turn of the century, the overlapping styles of Art Nouveau and Victorian were coming to an end. The Art Nouveau ethos of dazzler over practicality ultimately proved inaccessible and died abroad in the early 20th Century. The excessive ornamentation of the Victorian period was quickly seen as dated and former fashioned, and clean lines and thoughtful design became de rigueur.
Left to right: "Cubist Limerick" by Georges Valmier (1920); a program from the Ballets Russes (1914)
The Fine Arts
Art movements similar Bauhaus and Cubism had a huge influence on pattern, including an cover of geometry, simplicity, and clean silhouettes. Some other important influence on the new design motility was Sergei Diaghilev's Ballets Russes, or Russian Ballet, kickoff premiering in Paris in 1909. Bold uses of color, exotic costumes, and feathered headpieces excited the public. Afterward, after the austerity of wartime, this exuberance would get desirable once more than.
World War I
In both the couturiers and the streets, women's style had been completely overhauled. The exodus of men fighting in World War I between 1914 to 1918 necessitated women inbound the workforce and donning more than practical clothing. Complicated dresses and corsetry was discarded in favor of simple shifts and boyish silhouettes. Also during this time, platinum use in jewelry plummeted, as this metal was deemed essential for the war effort. In 1917, New York jeweler David Belais introduced his formula for 18k white gilded. White gold proved a popular alternative to platinum in the Art Deco era.
After the war, women had little interest in returning to their restraints and wanted to habiliment clothing that complimented an active lifestyle and leisurely pursuits. Lightweight fabrics became popular, and these new styles suited the complimentary spirited disposition of the darling of the 1920's, the flapper. Naturally, new styles of jewelry were needed to compliment this new fashion.
Travel and Discovery
The discovery of King Tutankhamen's tomb in 1922 besides greatly influenced Art Deco design. As images from the digging made their way to the western world, Egyptian motifs such as scarabs, pyramids, hieroglyphics, and obelisks became widely pop. Gemstones such as turquoise, lapis, and coral were prevalent, likewise as jewelry styles such as bib necklaces and stacked bangle bracelets. The increasing globalization of the modern era, combined with the lingering influence of Victorian imperialism, led to designs influenced by East Asian, Indian, and African motifs.
Related Commodity: From Pharaoh to Fashion: A History of Egyptian Revival Jewelry
Art Deco Divers
1925 Paris Blueprint Exposition
While electric current events certainly informed the new artful, the real catalyst for the Art Deco style was 50'Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes in 1925, a blueprint exposition in Paris originally planned for 1916, just postponed due to the war. Only new and inspired works were accepted, and exhibitors agreed to design with the new aesthetic in mind. One important aspect to this modify in design was the unprejudiced use of materials for their beauty or aesthetic appeal, rather than their monetary value. Previously unfashionable gemstones such every bit aquamarine, topaz, mother of pearl, coral, jade, and onyx became essential to jewelry designers who played off their different opacities and contrasting properties.
A Spectrum of Color
Color was dorsum. In addition to the use of colored gemstones, designers were playing with new advances in celluloid and bakelite jewelry which afforded a whole spectrum of hues. Fashionable contrasts were accomplished through combinations of blackness onyx with diamonds, ivory and ebony, and onyx and mother of pearl. Materials such as jade and bone were carved into Asian-influenced designs. Enamel was besides used prominently to reach colorful works.
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Related Article: The History of Enamel Jewelry
These Art Deco earrings and pendant showcase the jewel-similar qualities of camphor drinking glass and the frail intricacy of die-struck filigree.
Industrial Advancements
Advances in diamond cut led to baguette and tabular array cuts, while the malleability and strength of platinum immune for invisible settings and fluid designs. These pavé settings were imitated in costume jewelry with rhinestones and glass. Further advances in lab-grown gemstones led to their widespread use in jewelry. Synthetic sapphires in particular are very mutual in Art Deco jewelry, primarily as accent stones. Another manmade fabric popular at this fourth dimension was camphor glass, a kind of glass treated with acid to achieve a frosted finish, which was set into filigree jewelry and often absolute with a diamond.
Related Article: The History and Early Origins of Camphor Glass
Hexagonal heads and filigree basket settings, similar the ones in this engagement ring, were popular in the Art Deco era.
Die-struck filigree with manus finished accents took the form of hinged bangle bracelets, lavalier necklaces, rings, and brooches. Chromium plating allowed for tarnish resistant alternatives to the more expensive platinum and white gold. Filigree work was used to beautiful effect, especially in rings, and allowed for larger styles without using a lot of metal. Other popular ring styles at the time include octagonal and hexagonal settings, cocktail rings, dinner rings, stepped shoulders, and basket settings.
Related Article: Struck Past Light: Art Deco Filigree Jewelry History & Method
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Pearls exploded in popularity during the Art Deco era, and were often layered in long beaded lengths.
Pearls, Pearls, Pearls
Pearl necklaces were extremely pop, especially amongst the flappers. Long strands of up to 60 inches were piled on, swinging to and fro equally women danced the new energetic dances that jazz music demanded. Imitation pearls were the most in demand, fifty-fifty amongst the wealthier classes. Jewelers offered a range of qualities in imitation pearls, some fetching a very loftier toll, and often preferred to genuine pearls considering of their "indestructible" properties. The prominence of beaded jewelry extended to other materials as well, including amber and glass. Beaded tassels, faceted beads, and graduated designs were common.
Related Commodity: Which Pearl is Which: A Helpful Guide
More Means to Wear Jewelry
New ways of ornamenting one'south self were introduced in the Art Deco era. Dress clips to hold folds of fabric, 2 part belt buckles, chapeau ornaments, and bracelet watches (essentially decorative wrist watches) were all popular. Barrettes and head bands or "bandeaux" were necessary to compliment the new short hairstyles of the time. Some of these bandeaux would break apart and transform into earrings, bracelets, and necklaces.
Actresses Alla Nazimova in "Salome" and Theda Bara in "Cleopatra" showing off the jewelry trends of the time.
Art Deco in Hollywood
Just as the Ballets Russes set trends in manner, the advent of Hollywood and movie stars would bear witness just as influential to the jewelry earth. Actress Theda Bara helped to renew interest in Egyptian motifs in Cleopatra, five years before the discovery of Rex Tut's tomb. Gloria Swanson, in films such as Male and Female person, wore pearl encrusted costumes in slinky styles that no doubtfulness helped the gemstone'south popularity. Mary Pickford, extra and America's sweetheart, was known for her signature pearl and diamond sautoir, a kind of long necklace catastrophe in a tassel pendant. Though not everyone could beget Hollywood worthy jewels, these styles were imitated in more affordable materials and manufactured for the general public.
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This sapphire glass lavalier necklace embodies primal elements of Art Deco jewelry, including filigree and bold colors.
Art Deco Jewelry: Key Items and Themes
- Gemstones: diamond, aquamarine, topaz, pearl, coral, jade, lapis, onyx, synthetic sapphire and red
- Gemstone Cuts: carved, cabochon, fancy and brilliant cut diamonds
- Materials: white aureate, chromium plated metallic, Bakelite, camphor drinking glass, os
- Rings: dinner rings, cocktail rings, filigree settings, octagonal/hexagonal settings, basket settings, stepped shoulders
- Necklaces: long pearl strands, lavalier, sautoir, festoon, beads
- Bracelets: filigree link, bangles, arm bands, stacked styles, decorative watches
- Accessories: bandeaux, wearing apparel clips, hat ornaments, buckles
- Design Themes: geometry, symmetry, Eastward Asian, African, South American, architectural
Art Deco Today
The stock marketplace crash of 1929 that ushered in the Cracking Depression did non atomic number 82 to a period of thrift in jewelry blueprint. On the reverse, Hollywood entered its Golden Age and actresses adorned themselves in extravagant jewels befitting their stature. Meanwhile, the full general public embraced cheaper materials and exuberant, more flamboyant designs. By 1935, the Art Deco catamenia was over, however it would go along to serve as a abysmal well of inspiration for artists and designers in the years to come.
Art Deco design and authentic jewelry reproductions of the era have resurged in popularity in recent years. Market Square Jewelers' Elizabeth Henry line features authentic reissues of Art Deco era rings cast from master models. Ornate filigree, handbasket settings, and mitt finished details are just some of the iconic styles that we celebrate in these restoration pieces.
Whether you habiliment Art Deco era jewelry or modern interpretations of information technology, there's enough to love about these aesthetic and flattering designs. Shop our Art Deco collection and our Elizabeth Henry line past clicking the links below!
Store Art Deco era jewelry
Shop Elizabeth Henry antiquarian reproduction jewelry
The Bellamy Band from Market Square Jewelers' Elizabeth Henry line, an accurate Fine art Deco era design cast from a chief model.
Source: https://www.marketsquarejewelers.com/blogs/msj-handbook/history-style-influence-art-deco-jewelry
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